Inside Panopticon



 Rebecca Morter

REIN Co-founder

@REIN_London @Rmorter

 

 

PANOPTICON 

Behind and Inside the Collection

 

Ultimately REIN is a celebration of the female form, inspired by and for women. Focusing on the body as a medium; the brand explores the relationship between body and clothing, revealing and concealing, a play upon the socially acceptable..... In a nut shell, thats what we do and just to be clear we have plastered it across our website, social channels and anywhere we can - got it? But, I guess the question is what does that really mean? So, for our Autumn Winter 16 Collection (as it is officially known for the purposes of London Fashion Week) we chose to call our collection ‘Panopticon’, and held a digital presentation that was on the official schedule at London Fashion Week (yes, very. exciting.).

The collection itself is inspired by the concept of the panopticon prison - a surveillance tool that was used in prisons to control inmates at all times; specifically at how they acted, behaved, felt, knowing they were always being watched. 

For the Autumn collection we were interested in the parallels between this and current-day society - a comment on how today, as social users, we willingly allow and encourage ourselves and everyone around us to adopt this idea. We share everything about ourselves with the world, privacy is a thing of the past and people now feel that they have the right to look into each of our worlds. How much of your digital image is really you?

Not only did we find this idea interesting to inspire the collection itself; Through silhouettes, the laser cut patterns and structures, but also felt it was the perfect concept for a show. But a REIN show. And by that i mean different, unusual, shocking for our audience.

So the garments themselves, you will notice (if you head to our shop page and browse through), feature laser cut mesh-like patterns, imitating the multi-faceted nature of the panopticon, with hundreds of diamond-like cut outs, kept in line by thick stripe-like borders. Stark, solid black is sharpened by a spark of pure white, a bold blue and a smudge of charcoal. Dense leathers, thick encompassing wools and high shine satins are laser cut with geometric formations, where depth is heightened by layering hard shapes with soft silks. Overall, it emits a bold but clinical aesthetic with a sophisticated edge.

The digital presentation was held in The Elms Lester Paintrooms as part of The Wolves PR London Fashion Week showcase series.

 

We featured nine models, all fitting to REIN, all street cast and chosen for their strength of character, bold and empowering attitudes. The concept behind the show had the models using their personal mobile phones to copy, shock and immerse the audience. 

Each model was actually photographing, uploading to instagram and hashtagging the images taken of the audience and herself with fellow models in role reversal style performance.

Amid their performance, were three projections; the main screen showed a split screen surveillance style film of intimate, personal, mundane and normal actions that one goes through daily, we specifically focused on projecting footage from the fittings with the girls in our studio, from changing clothes to brushing ones teeth, the tasks we do in the privacy of our homes where no one can see into.

The second screen showed live shots using a hashtag filter of the audience that the models were taking, as well as photos of the performance that the audience was taking, filtered together to blur the perspective, blurring the lines between viewer and entertainer. 

The third screen live filmed/screened the audiences reactions to the models behaviour onto the large area of the ceiling, catching the shocked, confused and awkward reactions live.

 

The overall reaction was exactly what we wanted, I had one magazine (who unfortunately couldn't attend) email me the following day asking for images from the show and press release, when i sent across the images (same as those featured in this article all taken by Alex Vesci) the reaction i got was priceless, "These are all selfies, sorry i meant the official images from the show!" ..... so we definitely created something different. Of course I then had to explain the concept and why the images were unusual.... which was met with a much more excited reaction.

You can see press coverage from the show here >  LFW Daily, Noctis Magazine, Spindle Magazine, Jungle magazine, Deux Hommes, The Upcoming and many more... (see press section)

Special thanks for the show goes out to our wonderful choreographers; Co-curated by Cai Ritson and Katrina Thiel. And to Alex Vesci for the above images and all the photography he did for us, as well as David PD Hyde for his videography (currently featured on the front page of our site and on our youtube account) and the behind the scenes photographs he took.
 




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